“As baleias estão perto”; word goes around from the sailors to the guides. The whales are close today. The humpbacks swim around Príncipe’s nursery shores from mid-summer until October, keeping their calves away from the deeper, darker waters where the sharks cruise. We don’t see them as we zoom around the island in a dinky black fishing boat, but it’s enough to feel they’re in there. They’ve been known to breach just outside the island’s port, throwing their massive bodies…
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